Updated: April 17, 1999

Changes since last update (March 15, 1999):

- Additions to T03. My wine stopped bubbling. What's wrong?

This is the Troubleshooting FAQ for rec.crafts.winemaking. If you have
any additions, deletions, corrections, comments, questions or the like,
please direct them to r.c.w. or Don Buchan at malak&pobox.com (&=@)

Copyright notice:

Copyright 1995-1999 by Don Buchan, all rights reserved. This FAQ may be
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means, electronic or physical (such as, but not limited to, floppy
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commercial collections or compilations (except online services as
allowed above), express permission from Don Buchan (malak&pobox.com)
(&=@) must be obtained.

I have granted permission to Better Winemaking by Cybercom Publications
to print excepts from this document. I only receive a free copy of the
magazine, and have donated the value of the yearly subscription fee to
my church's Minister's Discretionary Fund.

Academic or professional use and accuracy:

In the case of academic use, follow the guidelines set out at your
institution for referencing electronic texts, provided that my name,
Don Buchan, and email ID, malak&pobox.com (&=@), are referenced as
editor/compilor. I suggest as title "FAQ List for Usenet Usegroup
rec.crafts.winemaking". An essay on suggested referencing guidelines
is available at http://clever.net/quinion/words/citation.htm or by
email from michael&quinion.demon.co.uk (&=@)

I am not an oenologist, nor is this text guaranteed to be 100%
accurate. No liability or warranty, express or implied, is assumed by
the editor or contributors. If you see an error, please send it to
malak&pobox.com (&=@)

This text covers the actual procedures of making wine to varying
degrees, as well as various approaches, techniques, and philosophies
about winemaking. These are sometimes going to contradict each other --
remember, different people wrote various sections. While the editor has
made an effort to bring the whole thing together, these contradictions
were left in to allow for the numorous methods of reaching the same
goal: Good to better to even great wine. The caveat to all this? Read
the whole document as much as possible. There are various sections that
contain loads of information that perhaps in and of themselves perhaps
are better contained in other sections but are left where they are.

If you want more information of a basic nature, request the primers
mentioned in the NET RESOURCES posting for wine & winemaking.

Editing & spelling conventions:

The editor has tried to edit for brevity in some cases, therefore
contributions may be shorter than submitted or as originally posted in
the newsgroup. When used, the word "I" is the contributor, not
necessarily the editor. Text in {} is the original question.

British (and Canadian) spelling conventions are used.

Measurement conventions:

An attempt has been made to include imperial, American and metric
measurements.

When a reference to a gallon is made, it will be identified as an
imperial or American gallon, and its equivalent in the other size is
made as well in litres. In this text, a gallon of wine is usually an
imperial gallon (4.5 L, 1.19 USG) and a gallon jug is usually 1.06 USG
(4 L, 0.89 imp. gal.).

TROUBLESHOOTING:

T01. I didn't rehydrate my yeast. Is that bad?
T02. Why hasn't my wine started bubbling yet?
T03. My wine stopped bubbling. What's wrong?
T04. Foaming problems
T05. My wine just won't clear. Why not?
T06. My fined and filtered wine is hazy. What's wrong?
T07. How do I get rid of the strong paper taste in filtered wine?
T08. The wine I bottled is fizzy. Why?
T09. Ornery bottle labels
T10. My wine smells bad. What happened?
T11. I've got vinegar. Any hope?
T12. Mycoderma (Flowers of Wine)
T13. I rinsed with cold water after sulphiting. Is that bad?
T14. I need to top up. How do I do it?
T15. Will filtering take out smells and tastes?
T16. How can I reduce sweetness?
T17. My corks keep coming out. What's happening?
T18. My wine has a geranium smell. Why?
T19. Ropiness
T20. My wine is too acid. What can I do?
T21. My wine is corked. Why?
T22. My sg went up -- why?
T23. Reducing "harshness"

GENERAL QUESTIONS -- Can be found in the seperate posting FAQ for
rec.crafts.winemaking

NET RESOURCES -- Can be found in the seperate posting NET RESOURCES for
wine & winemaking.

T01. I DIDN'T REHYDRATE MY YEAST. IS THAT BAD?

Not generally. It is recommended to rehydrate your yeast, as this will
give it a greater advantage in innoculating your wine and avoiding
contamination by other bacteria. That means that the wine will begin
fermenting sooner. Rehydrate for at least 15 minutes; even better
overnight in a sample of the juice.

T02. WHY HASN'T MY WINE STARTED BUBBLING YET?

{I put the yeast in about 12 hours ago and I don't see any signs of
fermentation. Does wine yeast take longer to kick in?}

It seems that this question came from a brewer. The short answer is
yes; part of the reason is that brewers tend to use liquid yeasts that
start up faster than powdered yeast, commonly used by winemakers.
Therefore it takes longer for the yeast just to rehydrate and get
going. If you rehydrate your yeast first as described elsewhere, it
should take less time to start up.

The other part of the answer is as follows:

Sugar level are higher in wine must than in beer wort, and thus yeast
take longer to get going. Float your rehydrated yeast onto the top of
the must.

The editor has also found that inadequate mixing of water and
concentrate plays tricks on the sugar/water concentration in different
parts of the fermentor, making ignition of the wine difficult for the
yeast. The solution is to properly mix the must, and as a safety
precaution add another packet of fresh yeast.

If your wine still refuses to start, the starter or wine could be too
hot or too cool, or the yeast too old. Ideal temperatures are between
20C to 22C (68F to 72F). If the starter or wine was too cool, move it
to a warmer location. If it was too warm, then move to a cooler
location. Note: you may need to reinnoculate if it was too warm, as
excessive warmth could kill your yeast.

Stuck ferment can be cured by, in the following order, A) moving the
wine to an area with an appropriate temperature, B) adding yeast
nutrient, C) adding yeast energizer, D) adding 1 gallon of the wine to
5 gallons of a similar wine during a healthy ferment. (That means, try
step A, and if that doesn't work, try step B, and so on and so forth.)

T03. MY WINE STOPPED BUBBLING. WHAT'S WRONG?

{My wine was bubbling furiously for 3 weeks but has now stopped. I
moved it to a warmer room but still nothing. Any suggestions?}

The operative clue here is "3 weeks". Check your sg, and if it's less
than 1.000, then the wine has fermented out. Go to the next step.
Another possibility is that you have a very high alcohol wine (starting
sg higher than 1.100) and the alcohol level has gotten so high that the
yeast can't tolerate it anymore (and you might have a slightly sweet
wine.) If not, follow the instructions for stuck ferment in the
section T02. WHY HASN'T MY WINE STARTED BUBBLING YET?

>SG reads 1.060.

Just trying to eliminate a possibilty -- a gallon of wine most of the
time will ferment out after six weeks (or three weeks as in the
previous example,) but this appears not to be the case, except as per
option A) (since I've seen it myself once. :) )

A) have you dropped your hydrometer before? This may dislodge the paper
inside and throw off your scale. At this point this is unlikely but I
have to ask as it's happened before.
B) add yeast nutrient, yeast energiser, sulphite and yes, new yeast.
Use champagne yeast because it's alcohol tolerant.
C) spin the hydrometer to release any CO2 bubbles from its sides; they
may be adding buoyancy to it and making it read higher than it should.
It shouldn't make it read *that* much off but it's a good practice in
general.
D) move the wine to a slightly warmer area, or use a brew belt. Cooler
temperatures may make it harder for the lower numbers of yeast to
survive.
E) be patient. Sometimes a ferment will stop and spontaneously restart
on its own.

If your sg at the beginning was closer to 1.120, it's possible that
you've exhausted the yeast from the alcohol and sugar levels. If this
is the case, then you can add this wine to another that is actively
fermenting and had a low initial sg, all a bit at a time. Still add the
sulphite, nutrient and energiser.

T04. FOAMING PROBLEMS

{I just racked my kit wine from the primary into the carboy. The
problem is there is a lot of foam. When I had the bottom of the cork 1
inch from the top of the wine the foam came all the way up the cork
spout and into the air trap. I lowered the wine level to 2 inches and
it's not coming out anymore. Is this foam OK?}

Probably. Some kits foam a lot. If you stretch the kit beyond the 5
imp. gal. mark, the last gallon has to be transferred into a glass jug.
When there's too much foam in the secondary (usually 2-3 inches), start
the transfer into the jug. By the time the jug has been filled, most of
the foam in the secondary has subsided. The foam that forms in the
carboy during secondary or stays after transfer is annoying but
harmless. To avoid it being a problem in the air lock, keep the level
of the wine about two inches from the top.

You can use a sanitized drink stirrer from a restaurant to break up the
foam.

T05. MY WINE JUST WON'T CLEAR. WHY NOT?

{I'm in the middle of making a kit and am concerned about the time it's
taking to clear. The wine was racked after the primary and again after
10 days. The instructions say the wine should clear within 14 days
after the second racking and can be bottled then. There is a
disclaimer that if the wine hasn't cleared within the stated time, it
may be filtered.}

It could be related to stretching your clearing agents; don't. Buy
extra gelatin for extra wine over the 5 imp. gal. mark. In any event,
any wine may not clear 100%, and certainly even 2 weeks may not be long
enough. It could be that the fermentation is going slowly due to a cold
room.

It won't hurt the wine at all to leave it longer in the secondary. Wine
can be left an extra month at times with no problem. Racking repeatedly
won't help much as long as the secondary is left undisturbed between
rackings; disturbances may resuspend some of the sediment, which is
generally counterproductive but in some cases may actually help
clearing. Try experimenting since often lee stirring adds extra
mouthfeel to the wine.

Filtration is an option if you must have clear wine. You can also rack
the wine every three months until the wine is crystal clear.

T06. MY FINED AND FILTERED WINE IS HAZY. WHAT'S WRONG?

{I made some Blackberry wine; the fermentation has now stopped and most
of the 'bits' have settled but there is still a lot of stuff sort of
hanging in the demijohn. What is this, what may I have done wrong, and
how can I prevent it next time?}

If you didn't use pectic enzyme during your fermentation to get rid of
it, the cause could be natural pectins in the fruit. Bentonite is also
helpful in clearing such haze. Activated charcoal may also work, but
may also strip your wine of other components if you put in too much or
use it for too long.

If all else fails, try leaving the finished wine outside for as long as
it doesn't freeze on a cold, frosty night. Those who don't live in such
cold climates can use a refrigerator on a very cold setting. The cold
will help it to clear.

T07. HOW DO I GET RID OF THE STRONG PAPER TASTE/PAPER FIBRES IN
FILTERED WINE?

When filtering your wine, the instructions should include a part on
running a couple of gallons of water through the filter first in order
to remove these problems.

T08. THE WINE I BOTTLED IS FIZZY. WHY?

{I opened some wine I bottled about 3 months ago and found it to be a
little fizzy. It can be just felt in the mouth, and is easy to see on
the sides of the glass. I have opened 3 bottles before this one and
didn't find the problem. Is it just beginning to show in all the
bottles, or is this bottle a fluke?}

There could be several "problems":

A) You didn't get rid of the carbonation sufficiently (stir it a little
harder and add an extra day of stirring before stabilizing.) This
usually presents itself from the first bottle opened on.
B) You didn't stabilize the wine correctly, and there may have been
some fermentation of residual sugar or MLF in the bottle. Don't stretch
stabilisers; buy extra for the extra wine. MLF can (and often does)
occur in the bottle. It happens because of low sulphite levels at
bottling. You should try to have about 50ppm of residual sulphite in
your wine to help avoid the problem. See the section on sulphite
requirements to know how much sulphite to put in. MLF will also cause
cloudiness, followed by sediment.
C) When you filtered your wine (assuming you did it under vacuum) the
vacuum was insufficient to remove 100% of the carbonation. Not much
you can do except refer to A) and B).

On a related note, corks may pop within a few days due to the pressure
increase from corking. This risk will disappear within a few days as
any oxygen will react with the sulphite in the wine and reduce the gas
volume and pressure. The risk can be reduced if you stand your bottles
upright for a couple of days before laying them on their sides as this
will allow the corks to set in the neck before being kept permanently
moistened (and therefore more slippery and likely to pop.) The risk of
popping corks might not disappear from all bottles if you over-filled
your bottles.

If the wine becomes fizzy due to fermentation of residual sugars or
MLF, the corks may pop. You may avoid either problem by properly
ensuring an appropriately low pH, and sufficient levels of sorbate and
sulphite.

T09. ORNERY BOTTLE LABELS

{Some labels are miserable ... even after soaking you have to pick the
label off a little at a time and no amount of scrubbing or scraping
removes all of the glue. Is there an easier way?}

A) Soak all your bottles in HOT soapy water with soap in it for a few
hours; most labels will come off readily. Some people add bleach, TSP,
or automatic diswasher soap crystals or gel instead of soap.
B) Some glue isn't water soluble, so use some turpentine to dissolve
it; then use powdered soap to wash off the turpentine. Wallpaper
remover can also work well. Also, many people have successfully soaked
their bottles in a tub with EITHER bleach OR ammonia (mixing the two
can be dangerous)
C) Occasionally expect to scrape off labels.

It has even been suggested to use peanut butter smeared over the label.

It has also been suggested that the use of a foaming soap (like washing
up soap for manually washing dishes) can be the devil to get completely
rinsed out and has a very strong taste if not throughly removed. To
avoid this problem, use a NONFOAMING soap such as TSP or automatic
dishwashing soap.

T10. MY WINE SMELLS BAD. WHAT HAPPENNED?

There are three major problems:

A) Somewhere along the line, you didn't keep things clean. The wine
could have been infected by something that produced off flavours and
smells. REMEMBER: Everything that touches the wine in any way has to
be very clean and sanitized first.
B) It's possible that your wine is corked. In this case, it will have
a strong cork smell and taste. The cause is that the cork you used
either wasn't properly sanitized before use or when it was made it
didn't get cleaned properly.
C) Rotten egg smell (hydrogen sulphide) can come from low acid wines in
which dead yeast start to lyse ("explode") and live cells feed on them
or when there is not enough yeast nutrient.

In cases A & B, your wine has gone bad. HOWEVER: It may be a bottle
by bottle problem, particularly with corked wine, so be careful about
wasting good wine. In case C, pour (do not syphon) the wine into a
clean vessel and add 1 campden tablet per gallon as well as some yeast
nutrient. Clean copper pennies seem to also help clear this problem.

As a preventative measure, every once in a while you should:

A) Fill up your container with water, add bleach, and let it soak for
24 hours;
B) Fill up your container with water, add trisodium phospate (a cleaner
which should be easily available at a hardware store), and let it soak
for 24 hours.

T11. I SEEM TO HAVE VINEGAR. ANY HOPE?

Nope. Throw it out or cook with it. It would be advisable to bleach
the infected containers as well. Your wood barrel should NEVER be used
again for winemaking, as the vinegar bacteria will never get out. Use
it as a planter in your yard. REMEMBER TO CLEAN ANYTHING THAT TOUCHES
YOUR WINE!

T12. MYCODERMA (FLOWERS OF WINE)

This is when grey islands appear on the surface. Before they
completely cover the surface (in which case it's too late, and you'll
have to throw it out) strain the wine through cotton mesh and add 2
campden tablets per gallon.

T13. I RINSED WITH COLD WATER AFTER SULPHITING. IS THAT BAD?

Usually this shouldn't cause a problem, unless your water supply isn't
potable or is unreliable.

Pros:

A) You can rinse out any extra dirt loosened by the sulphite solution
rinse
B) You can avoid as much bitter taste from sulphate (oxidized sulphite)
and reduce problems with sulphite allergies by rinsing it out

Cons:

A) You have a very mild risk of contamination which is contrary to the
process of sulphiting in the first place

T14. I NEED TO TOP UP. HOW DO I DO IT?

There are several suggestions:

- Make a little more wine than your secondary fermentor can hold, and
keep the extra amount in a sealed container in the fridge. Use it to
top up as you need to.
- Purchase a bottle or two of the same kind of wine and use to top up.
- Use water. Be careful as too much water will dilute your wine.
- Use marbles or clean stones to raise the level of the wine. Be
careful with regards to cleanliness.
- Use smaller containers.
- Use a CO2 source (such as vinegar and baking soda, or dry ice) to
create a blanket over the wine -- pour out the CO2 from the container,
but not the liquid!

T15. WILL FILTERING TAKE OUT SMELLS AND TASTES?

{Will filtering take out a sulfur smell and a slight salty kind of
taste?}

Generally not. Those qualities are due to particles which are too
small -- in "true solution" (electrolitic solution) -- to be filtered
out without something like a reverse osmosis filter, an ionic exchange
filter or in the case of odours, sometimes an activated charcoal
filter. Occasionally minute amounts of these substances may be caught
in the larger particles that can be filtered out, but not usually in
significant quantities.

The way around this, from a filtering point of view and for the case of
odours is to add some activated charcoal powder from your supplier and
follow the directions; it may help take out some of the sulphur. Note
that this method may also strip the wine of colour and desirable odour
and taste as well.

Check above for other ways to reduce sulphur.

There is no practical way, at home, to reduce the chloride ions in the
wine that would lead to a salty taste. The only way to avoid this is
to use distilled water in your recipes -- assuming that the fruit you
use doesn't have a salty taste to it already! :)

T16. HOW CAN I REDUCE SWEETNESS?

{Is there any way when making the wine to reduce the sweetness if you
want, ie. can something be added at racking (obviously once it's
bottled it's too late).}

The short answer is basically no.

The sweetness is caused by sugar. The sugar can only be removed by
fermentation.

A) Restart the fermentation. Use a high power yeast such as condessa's
restart or champagne yeast. Add some nutrient, and try to get the yeast
working again.
B) If the wine is very strong -- try diluting it with water.
C) Vodka can also be utilised, but this can be expensive on anything
but the smallest scale.

You can also try adding some acid blend -- this will interact with your
with the sugar on your palate and reduce the apparent sweetness.

Adding some acid, or acid blend, will make your wine more 'drinkable'.
The type of acid depends on the type of wine. Start with small amounts
(perhaps 1/2 tsp per US gallon will do) and increase slowly according
to your taste.

A) Find a group of people who like sweet wine, as you suggest.
B) Blend with a wine that is extremely dry ... perhaps a 2:1 mix in
favour of the dry wine if the sweet wine is REALLY sweet and/or you
can't tolerate anything above slightly sweet
C) Blend a gallon of the wine with 5 gallons of healthily fermenting
wine. This should ferment out with little trouble. You might wish to
try to continue this with the rest but after a while, the amount of
sorbate that would accumulate in the whole amount might overpower the
healthy yeast. As such you may need 10 or 15 gallons of healthily
fermenting wine in order to absorb all of the wine.
D) Try a combination of the above ... keep a few bottles of sweet wine
for your friends who like it, blend some with another finished wine
that is very dry, blend some more with a healthily fermenting wine.
This would solve the technical problem seen in C) while avoiding having
too much of a product you don't want while still allowing you to
appreciate the good aspects of it.

T17. MY CORKS KEEP COMING OUT. WHAT'S HAPPENING?

There are a number of reasons for this:

A) You're overfilling your bottles. If you overfill your bottles, the
air pressure inside the bottle may be enough to pop the corks. To stop
this, fill only to the bottom of the neck -- this is obvious in
bordeaux style bottles; in others, the bottom of the neck is where the
bottle curves back towards the vertical.
B) You're not letting your bottles stand for a couple of days before
laying them on their side. Corks need anywhere from a couple of days to
a week to set properly in the neck of the bottle. Laying the bottles on
their side too soon allows the wine to seep through the sides and keep
the cork too wet and therefore still too slippery.
C) The bottle's inner neck diameter is too large -- a problem usually
on one litre bottles found at least in Canada & the USA, perhaps
elsewhere. This can be solved at least most of the time by addressing
A) and B) and if they're not a problem, this won't be either.
D) MLF or refermentation in the bottle. You'll know this is happening
if some of your unpopped bottles have fizzy wine in them. To avoid the
problem, ferment out the wine completely, or properly fine, filter and
stabilize your wine. Take particular caution to add enough sulphite to
avoid MLF.

T18. MY WINE HAS A GERANIUM SMELL. WHY?

It has to do with the sorbate you use to stabilize the wine. Apparently,
particularly with sweet wines, sorbate will react with MLF cultures to
produce the geranium smell.

T19. ROPINESS

{What would cause a shimmery, silky, egg-drop soup like substance to
form in wines after several months in the bottle? It settles, but is
easily disturbed and causes me to have to pour extremely carefully.}

It appears that you may have a lactobacilli problem. The more common
term is ropiness. Some of the lactobacilli bacteria multiply and stick
together forming long chains that can be seen in the wine. The mucus
the bacteria secrete becomes thick and oily.

The cure is to put the wine in a carboy, add sulphite (about 50 ppm)
and break up the chains by stirring. Allow the wine to settle; then
filter. This wine well probably not keep and should be consumed soon
after filtering.

Prevention is by hygiene.

T20. My wine is too acid. What can I do?

Check G21. ACID BALANCE.

High acid wines will last longer that low acid ones. If in your case it
is the perception of acidity, have others taste the wine and see if it
is widespread. If so, re-test acidity with fresh chemicals.

If not, then:

A) cold stabilize the wine to promote tartaric precipitation
B) use chalk (as per G21. ACID BALANCE)
C) dilute the wine a bit with another low acid wine or with water
D) or sweeten the wine with a wine conditioner which will mask the
acidity (..."a spoonful of sugar helps the medicine go down....") and
remember to use sulphite and sorbate
E) bottle the wine and forget it for a couple of years
F) Innoculating wine with malo-lactic bacterial culture. This will help
convert malic acid to lactic acid and soften the wine.

T21. MY WINE IS CORKED. WHY?

>In addition to the homemade juice, I buy a fair amount of commercially
>produced wine. Given the "20% of all corks used are bad" figure one
>would statistically expect that, on average, one out of every five
>bottles purchased to have a bad cork. In the last year I seem to
>recall opening ONE bottle of store-bought wine with a bad cork, and
>have yet to experience a cork problem with the homemade stuff. This
>makes me question that statistic.

Since several years I am working on the field of cork research and I am
familiar with the actual statistics concerning bad corks. First of all,
before talking about these statistics we have to differentiate between
natural corkstoppers -- those corkstoppers punched out of the bark of
the cork oak by cylindrical knives -- and agglomerate cork, produced
from the ground residues of the cork bark remaing after punching out
the natural corkstoppers. In the group of the natural corkstoppers we
find in average between 1% and 2% of corkstoppers leading to the
typical cork taint and other aroma and flavor modifications of the
closed wine. In the group of the agglomerate corkstoppers we find in
average 5% bad corks. In some rare cases the rate of bad corks (natural
as well as agglomerate) exceed these values, but this is due to a humid
atmosphere during transport or storage of the corkstoppers and mostly
occured in batches of chlorine bleached corkstoppers.

T22. MY SG WENT UP -- WHY?

{My original sg was at 1.084, but this evening it was 1.098. Since I
didn't add any sugar, what happened?}

A) have you dropped your hydrometer? This may dislodge the paper inside
and throw off your scale. To find out if this is the case, float it in
water at about 65F and it should read 1.000, or compare it against a
new hydrometer at your supplier
B) your hygrometer is being floated upwards by active bubbles clinging
to the hydrometer, causing it buoy it higher than it should be
C) there may be a temperature difference. The specific gravity of a
solution is quite temperature-dependent, and if the two readings were
made at different temperatures they are not comparable
D) If you are using a kit or added sugar and didn't mix the must
properly, you may have originally floated your hydrometer in a pocket
of must with lower sugar content; after fermentation started, natural
mixing due to CO2 bubbles may have stabilized the sugar content
throughout the must

T23. REDUCING "HARSHNESS"

{I started 5 gallons of Peach Wine, my second batch, and my first batch
from real fruit. Last week I racked it again and tasted it, it was
bitter or harsh, is this normal? sg 1.080 to 0.0992

There are a lot of ways of taking care of it, depending on what the
problem was.

A) Best way is to age it for a few years ("solves" most problems as the 
maturation deals with the problem.)
B) You can sweeten it. (covers & balances lots of things like acidity
and high alcohol in particular, although I don't think that you have too
much alcohol.)
C) Next time you can avoid problems by not allowing the pits to get into
the must. (gives a bitter taste.)
D) Correct the acid beforehand by adding some chalk. (See the FAQ at 
http://www.pobox.com/~malak/rcw.faq)
E) Don't add too much acid blend when you prepare your must.
F) Do MLF.
G) Add some activated charcoal, then add finings a couple of days later
and filter when clear. I don't like this approach since it will also
strip the wine of colour and taste.

Contributors:

Don Buchan (editor), Tony DeVito, Eric Garrison, Brian Carty, Peter
Rosback, Rick Regan, David B. Gibson, Don Schiller, Dave Kehlet, Paul
Jean, Scott Arighi, Tamiko Toland, Victor Reijs, Philip DiFalco,
Richard Castle, Jack Ziebart, Morley, Christopher Sawtell, Brian
Hiebert, Greg Owen, K.D. Colagio, Mark Levesque, Anthony Hawkins,
Patrick J. Tierney, Bob Konigsberg, Tim Hodkinson, Michael Arthurs, Bob
Konigsberg, Klaus Oehr, Art Turner, Gary, Jacques Recht, Ronald
Elshaug, Bryan Johnson, Ronald Elshaug, Geza T Szenes, John Katchmer,
Warren Vidrine, Joseph Delaney, Dan Razzell, G. Trend, Matt Marshall,
John D. Trites, Tom Barnhart, Tom How, Giovanni Alfieri, Scott E.
Shull, Graham Skerrett, Harry A. Demidavicius, Roger Boulton, Andrew
Bennett, Jens P. Jaeger, Paul Frymier and many others on whose posts
some sections were based.